Qinhuangdao - a beautiful Bohai Sea tourist destination
There were reasons behind the seemingly slow start. The number and length of holidays that were the norm in western countries did not then exist in China and it was a time when most people generally were not affluent. Cultural differences also existed. Many Chinese friends thought it strange that I would walk on a beach in strong sunlight. People tried to avoid sunshine to protect their skin while north Europeans would often flock to the Mediterranean shores of Southern Europe that promised abundant sun.
I thought of this recently while heading north from Tianjin towards Qinhuangdao. Located on the Bohai Gulf, Qinhuangdao sits near Hebei's border with Liaoning province. Twenty-three years after my initial visit I was to discover so much had changed, indeed often for the better! A three-hour road trip, for me as a geographer, proved very interesting. The highway skirted southwestern Bohai, a vast sea area I have developed a growing fascination with. There were extensive areas of marine salt pans, fishing harbors alongside wind turbines and solar energy farms. Nearing my destination the land was green with intensive farming interspersed between compact villages. We were only a few meters above sea level as witnessed by the many water channels. With flat terrain, the quiet country roads appeared perfect for cycling. "Stop the car" I was thinking, "Let me out, I want to cycle!" However I was also desperate to reach the hotel before darkness fell for it was early winter. I knew from the forecast that the beautiful blue skies would be replaced next evening by clouds.
Arriving with an hour to spare, I dumped my bags, rushed down from the hotel's open terrace, past the outdoor pool and summer barbecue facilities, across its wide lawn until reaching a pier stretching above the waters. It reminded of a scene from the UK comedy film "Mr Bean on Holiday" where Bean, played by actor Rowan Atkinson, travelled south through France determined to reach the Mediterranean. The final scene, he rushes into the sea, arms outstretched while singing "La Mer" ("The Sea"). Soon everyone on the beach joins in. I was just like that, standing on that pier, arms outstretched, looking towards the distant horizon, breathing in the Bohai's clean air while singing to myself "La Mer" except I was alone - it was early winter, the peak tourism season over.
The beach was almost deserted and outdoor facilities closed until the following spring. However for those moments as evening fell over the waters crashing onto the sands, I was euphoric. I have retained a lifelong passion for oceans although now living in a large urban center such as Beijing they sadly became distant memories!
