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Shanghai's noodle shops

By XING YI????|????China Daily Global????|???? Updated: 2021-02-05 09:06

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Yi Gui He is among the must-visit venues in Shanghai for Yang Chun Mian. CHINA DAILY

Yang Chun Mian

Featuring just a handful of chopped scallions, clear broth and thin white noodles, Yang Chun Mian appears to be a plain and uninspiring dish. But this is in reality the most famous noodle in the Yangtze River Delta.

If you are looking for authentic Shanghai-style Yang Chun Mian, the noodle house called Yi Gui He, which was founded 17 years ago at 290 Ji'an Road, is among the must-visit venues in the city.

Located opposite a Buddhist temple, the stall stands out among neighboring small stores with a black signboard that reads: "A noodle shop dedicated to the Yang Chun Mian of the old Shanghai."

A large photo of a bowl of Yang Chun Mian hangs on the wall in the store. Three kettles containing different teas are placed on a table at the entrance for guests. Old Shanghai music plays softly in background.

"Noodle houses like these are now very rare in Shanghai," says Weng Shunan, a customer. "The noodles here taste the same as those from my childhood. In the 1990s, my mom would take me to eat noodles in small alleys. Here, I usually order the noodle with a meat roll. It brings back good memories of the past."

At Yi Gui He, diners can choose to complement their noodles with over a dozen toppings, including beef, mushrooms, meatballs, eel and bean curd.

The manager recommends that diners can also add pickled potherb mustard, diced spicy potatoes and bean curd to the noodle soup.

"This is the classic pairing," he says. "But our noodle soup is good even if eaten alone."

The store, which is open from 6:30 am to 8:30 pm, is usually packed during lunch hours on weekdays. A bowl of plain noodle soup costs 19 yuan and toppings range from 4 yuan for a fried egg to 59 yuan for braised mutton.

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