For the people of Yunnan province, wild mushrooms are more than just ingredients — they're a spiritual adventure. During this season's mushroom harvest, 33-year-old chef Zhang Yunjia, a native of Yunnan, invites diners on a sensory journey through her culinary creations at Under Clouds Green in Beijing.
During the capital's fleeting autumn, Zhang's specially designed menu captures the essence of the season, bringing together wild mushrooms from Yunnan and organic produce from Beijing farms, leaving behind a delicate, lingering memory of fall.
From vibrant sauces that let guests "paint" with mushrooms, to miniature landscapes resembling potted gardens that transport diners into the center of nature, every detail of Zhang's menu reflects her artistry and imagination.
Clear broths and elegant side dishes evoke the familiar, comforting flavors of Yunnan, while the presentation reveals her refined aesthetics, meticulous attention to detail, and deep respect for each ingredient.
Behind these plant-based creations lies Zhang's lifelong connection to her homeland — the stir-fried mushrooms, the steaming rice noodles, and the warm rice cakes from her childhood. Each dish is both a tribute to the province's culinary heritage and an invitation for diners from around the world to discover its rich, soulful flavors.
"The beauty of Yunnan cuisine lies in the incredible diversity of ingredients and spices," Zhang says.
"I want to find a balance between presentation and taste. Each seasonal menu is a challenge for me, but my hope is that with every bite, guests can truly taste the essence of Yunnan."
Following her heart
Born and raised in Kunming, the provincial capital of Yunnan, Zhang grew up in a household where food was a symbol of connection and joy. Her father, ever the gracious host, loved filling their home with friends while her mother prepared a grand feast for everyone. That early warmth and sense of family around the dining table became the seed that grew into her culinary journey.
Years later, while studying accounting in the United States, Zhang rediscovered that joy in an unexpected place — a volunteer kitchen.
"Watching people smile because of your food, seeing 'abandoned' ingredients come alive with new energy — that kind of genuine happiness and satisfaction felt far greater than solving any accounting problem," she recalls.
Her passion for cooking soon outgrew the boundaries of just being a hobby. After earning her graduate degree and returning to China, she decided to follow her heart. She first ventured into the culinary world with a cold-pressed juice brand inspired by light fasting, then traveled to the United Kingdom to study French cuisine.
In 2018, Zhang returned home and officially stepped into the professional kitchen. She honed her skills in Kunming's restaurants and later in Ikea's food division, where she learned the discipline and structure of kitchen management.
Over time, the "girl who loved to cook" became a confident, creative head chef, blending Yunnan's roots with modern sensibility.
