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Redefining Chinese cuisine in New York: The story behind Yingtao

By MINGMEI LI in New York | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2026-03-18 10:34
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Joining Yingtao as executive chef in February, Emily Yuen brings her Chinese heritage and French culinary training to create a fusion approach within the restaurant's tasting menu. [Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]

"Chinese cuisine deserves the same platform," he said.

The early days were challenging. American diners were often unfamiliar with refined interpretations of Chinese flavors, while some Chinese diners expected more traditional dishes.

"We were in an awkward position," Yao recalled. "Local diners didn't fully understand Chinese cuisine, and some Chinese diners felt this wasn't the Chinese food they were used to."

But as recognition grew, so did the audience for Yingtao's innovative approach. Yao realized that his concept was "on track" despite the pressures of introducing something new.

Chef Emily Yuen, who grew up in a Chinese household in Canada and studied French and Japanese cuisine, said she wanted to draw on her training and childhood memories to explore new ways of expressing Chinese flavors.

"It's been like a journey for me to think about the things I had growing up," Yuen said. "I'm drawing on inspirations from my memories, using the techniques from my background and bringing them together."

The new menu places even stronger emphasis on Chinese flavors while maintaining a fine-dining presentation. Many dishes reinterpret familiar classics.

For example, one dish is inspired by the Cantonese dim sum classic "lo mai gai" (sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf). Rather than wrapping the rice in the traditional way, the chefs stuff sticky rice, Chinese sausage and salted egg yolk inside a chicken wing.

Earning a Michelin star is not the final goal, Linette said.

"It's not necessarily about prestige, but about visibility and representation. It's trying to find a platform for Chinese cuisine to stand against, like all the other Asian cuisines happening in the city. It gives a lot of leverage," she said.

"We're not trying to replace traditional Chinese restaurants," her husband said. "What we want is to show another possibility."

mingmeili@chinadailyusa.com

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