Camels have a reputation as bad-tempered, irascible beasts, but as mine slowly padded through the dunes of Mingsha Mountain in the middle of Northwest China's Dunhuang desert, I felt we had an affinity, the only sound being her feet hitting the deep sand.
The mountain and the oasis of Crescent Lake, where camel rides are offered, are highlights of any visit to Dunhuang in Gansu province. The dunes stretch for about 40 square kilometers and reach heights of hundreds of meters, an awe-inspiring sight for any visitor with the stamina to scramble to the top of one.
Looking down from a dune crest, ancient travelers who had braved the journey across this sea of sand must have thought the curve of Crescent Lake was a mirage, a genuine oasis in the desert. Even in winter, with its waters iced over, the lake still reflects the adjacent pavilion, and would have been a much-needed resource for caravans traveling along the ancient Silk Road.
This corner of China is notable for its harsh environment, and just a couple of hours' drive away is the start of the Gobi Desert. Here one finds the Great Wall of the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), a 2,100-year-old fortification that stretches for approximately 136 kilometers. Built from compressed grass, gravel, sand, and clay, the wall played an important role in defending the realm but must have been a daunting and bleak posting for soldiers sent there from greener, warmer climes.
At this section of the Great Wall, considered to be the best preserved from that era, stands Danggu Beacon Tower, from which a large number of bamboo slips have been excavated. In these towers, soldiers would have scanned the surrounding desert for approaching enemies, creating smoke during the daytime and lighting fires at night to alert their comrades to prepare for battle.
Just a few kilometers from the tower are the ruins of Big Fangpan Castle. Also built during the Western Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 24), the building once held supplies for the border guards keeping watch over the Silk Road and those stationed at the nearby former military stronghold of the Yumen Pass.
The weight of its history is palpable. Standing like a lone sentinel in the flat landscape, the pass was constructed around 110 BC under the orders of Emperor Wudi and served as a military garrison, controlling a strategic route in the Hexi Corridor valley.
It also helped guard trade on the Silk Road, and it is believed that jade from Hetian in Xinjiang was transported through the Yumen Pass, hence its alternative name, the Jade Gate.
Tens of thousands of merchants, caravans, villagers, and soldiers would have passed through the gate, perhaps including the famed Italian explorer Marco Polo, who is known to have visited Dunhuang. Not just an ancient structure, the Jade Gate is a witness to history and has held an integral role for centuries.
