Pushing tradition forward
For Zhu's son, Zhu Xiaoxing, luo was part of everyday life. Growing up, he wore summer clothes made from leftover luo fabrics from his parents' factory — light and cool, but nothing special.
Two years ago, he had a stable job at a State-owned enterprise. But watching his aging parents pour their lives into wuluo, with a wish to share it nationwide and beyond, he made a decisive choice: he quit his job, left Shanghai, and returned to Suzhou with his wife to carry on the tradition.
His background in science and engineering unexpectedly gives him a unique edge. Understanding loom mechanics, warp-weft arrangements and pattern logic comes naturally, akin to mechanical calculations and structural principles. Within just two years, he has grasped some core techniques.
To attract younger audiences, 40-year-old Zhu Xiaoxing began developing original patterns that appeal to modern tastes. Traditional patterns often feature plants, flowers, insects, or fruits. In his factory, there is a small museum showcasing ancient patterns favored by generations, including his father's.
"The younger generation is different. They prefer simple, elegant and clean lines. Our best-seller is an abstract pattern," he says.
He balances preserving core techniques with modern aesthetics. Collaborating with design teams, he reinterprets traditional patterns, stripping away excessive complexity while keeping the essence of understated Chinese elegance. The result is new patterns suitable for modern Chinese-style wear and cultural accessories.
He also leverages social media platforms like Xiaohongshu and Douyin, publishing educational videos about luo and occasionally selling fabrics via livestreams. Many items sell out within a minute.
Zhu Xiaoxing admires his father's lifelong perseverance. "It's his generation's 'never give up' spirit that has brought wuluo to ride the wave of the current Chinese-style revival, making this ancient craft loved again."
Zhang Xiaoxia, a professor from Soochow University's School of Art in Suzhou, observes that the rise of national pride, growing cultural confidence, and the revival of ancient costumes in TV dramas have fueled the new Chinese-style fashion trend. Moreover, machine weaving reduces costs, making wuluo affordable for ordinary people.
"In ancient China, luo was a frequent subject in poetry. It is translucent yet misty, elegant and restrained, the colors never gaudy — carrying a quiet allure beloved by poets and literati. Its semi-sheer texture and soft drape are not just garments, but a vessel of Eastern poetry," says Zhang.
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Carrying on an ancient craft that has survived thousands of years through generations
