Seeing the gardens of newly-opened peony flowers not only impressed me, but convinced me to come back for a second visit, this time a week in May, to learn about typical local handcrafts, namely embroidery, papercutting and ceramics. I believe that every place deserves a second visit, and never has this been truer. Upon returning to Luoyang, I was able to explore the city more freely, discovering "off the beaten track" gems such as riverside parks and stunning rooftop cocktail bars. I now feel ready to tell the world about what this ancient but thriving city has to offer.

Luoyang has spoilt me with daily pleasures, but there are a few that stand out in particular: the Longmen grottoes, of course, are a must-see for anyone interested in China's history; parading through the old town in Tang dynasty (618-907) gowns is an experience I will not forget; the delicate fragrance of peony flowers embedded in warm cakes and ice creams. But for me, it was the contact I had with local people that touched me the most. My embroidery teacher became a lasting friend and gave me my first experience wearing an authentic silk qipao. As we walked along the riverside in such beautiful clothing, I realized that Luoyang's strength is its attention to detail and beauty.