Banteay Kdei.[Photo by Shen Ye/For China Daily]

The temples are mostly within two circuits to the north of the city - "The little one and big one," as tuk-tuk drivers describe them. To do a circuit thoroughly takes a good 10 hours, either starting at sunrise or finishing at sunset.

Visitors with only a day or two in Siem Reap will probably be content with the small route, which takes in the most-famous sites, including Angkor Wat. If you have the time, though, doing both routes, plus a third day to see sites further out, such as Bakong, will allow the chance to appreciate the variation in the architecture.

Many of the ruins are in good condition, considering their age, such as Banteay Srei, the 1,000 year-old "citadel of women", which has been well preserved and has arguably the most beautiful carvings of any of the temples.

However, the more-adventurous traveler will not want to miss Beng Melea, about 90 minutes northeast by road from the main area. Here, the jungle has taken over, with trees growing between the stones to create some tremendous photo opportunities. Unlike at other temples, visitors here can climb over some sections to explore the passageways obscured by rubble. (Those who don't want to make the trip can see similar sights at the much smaller Ta Prohm, which is on the little circuit.)